Mortgage Discount Points Break-Even Calculator
A discount point is an upfront fee paid at mortgage closing — one point equals 1% of the loan and permanently buys down the contract rate by a small amount (the lender's pricing sheet sets the reduction per point, typically 0.125–0.375 percentage points). Enter the loan amount, term, base rate, the number of points you would buy and the per-point reduction; the tool runs the standard amortisation formula and reports (1) the upfront cost; (2) the effective rate after applying the points; (3) the monthly payment with and without points, and the monthly saving; (4) most importantly the break-even month (upfront cost ÷ monthly saving); and (5) the net saving over the full term. Points pay off if you keep the loan past the break-even month — sell or refinance earlier and the upfront fee is wasted.
Check the loan amount, base rate, term, points and reduction per point — all must be non-negative numbers.
Upfront cost
$3,000
Paid once at closing; not financed.
Effective rate
6.25%
↓ 0.25 pp
Monthly (no points)
$1,896
Monthly (with points)
$1,847
↓ $49 / mo
Break-even point
61 mo
≈ 5.1 yr
Formula
Upfront cost = points · 1% · loan Effective rate = base rate − points · reduction per point Monthly payment P = L · i / (1 − (1 + i)^(−n)) where i = monthly rate = annual / 12, n = total months Monthly saving = P(base rate) − P(effective rate) Break-even month = upfront cost ÷ monthly saving (undefined when saving ≤ 0) Lifetime saving = monthly saving · n − upfront cost
- · "Points" are standard in US mortgage pricing (FHA, VA and conventional loans). Hong Kong, UK, Canada and Singapore lenders sometimes offer similar rate buy-downs or lender credits, but terms vary widely — always ask for a written quote stating "rate reduction per point" before agreeing.
- · Break-even depends on three things: loan term, base rate level, and the reduction per point. High-rate environments combined with a generous reduction shorten the break-even most. In low-rate environments with a modest reduction, break-even can stretch past 7 years.
- · If you plan to keep the loan past the break-even month, points pay off. In practice the median US home loan only lasts ~5–7 years before sale or refinance, so any break-even longer than 7 years is usually not worth taking.
- · This tool assumes a level-payment fixed-rate mortgage. Adjustable-rate (ARM) loans complicate things — the points only buy down the rate during the initial fixed period, so check the lender's terms carefully.
- · Opportunity cost: the upfront cash could instead be invested. A rigorous decision uses NPV/IRR, deducting expected investment return from the monthly saving. This tool gives a simplified break-even — useful as a first screen but not a full NPV analysis.
- · Tax treatment: in the US, points on a primary-home purchase are usually fully deductible in the year of purchase (Schedule A); points paid to refinance must be amortised over the loan term. Other jurisdictions treat them differently — consult a tax adviser.
- · Sources: US Consumer Financial Protection Bureau "What are discount points?", Freddie Mac PMMS methodology, IRS Publication 936 (Home Mortgage Interest Deduction).
Frequently asked
How many points should I buy?
There is no single right answer — it depends on how long you intend to hold the loan. Practical workflow: (1) plug in 0.5, 1 and 2 points and read the break-even month each gives; (2) compare each break-even to how long you actually expect to keep the loan. If 1 point breaks even at 4 years and you plan to live there 10 years → worth it. If 2 points takes 7 years to break even and you might sell at 5 → not worth it. Rule of thumb: long-haul primary-home buyers (10+ years) often gain from 1–2 points; anyone likely to move or refinance within 3 years should not buy any. Also watch for diminishing returns — the lender's rate sheet may give less reduction on the second or third point than on the first.
Are "lender credits" just the reverse of points?
Yes. Lender credits (sometimes called negative points) work in reverse: the lender pays some of your closing costs in exchange for a higher contract rate. The break-even logic flips: if you plan to hold the loan briefly, credits often pay off (you pocket the cash and sell before the higher rate erodes savings); long-haul holders end up worse off because the higher monthly payment compounds. This tool does not currently model negative points, but the math is the same — flip the sign on the upfront cost and the saving, and the same equation tells you the longest you should keep the loan before credits become a net loss.
Should I use spare cash for points or a bigger down payment?
They serve different purposes. A larger down payment directly reduces the loan principal → smaller monthly payment + less total interest + possibly removes PMI (in the US, mortgage insurance kicks in below 80% LTV). Points do not reduce principal but permanently lower the rate. Trade-off in practice: (1) If a slightly bigger down payment would push your LTV under 80% and drop PMI, that is usually the better return; (2) If you plan to hold long-term (10+ years) and LTV is already under 80%, points may save more because the lower rate compounds over time; (3) If neither, investing the cash (long-run ~7% in a broad index fund) often wins on expected value but carries market risk. A full NPV analysis is the rigorous answer — this tool only does the points break-even.
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